A garage door that won't open at all has three likely causes in order: broken torsion spring (most common), snapped cable, or opener failure. Spring breaks are the #1 cause and are dangerous to attempt as DIY. Here's how to safely diagnose and decide whether to call.
Step 1: Did you hear a loud bang recently?
If you heard a loud bang within the last few days followed by the door becoming inoperable, it's almost certainly a broken torsion spring. The spring snaps under tension and creates a loud noise like a small gunshot.
DO NOT try to lift the door manually. Without spring tension, a steel sectional door weighs 150-300 lbs. Lifting an unbalanced door is how people get hurt. Call a tech.
Step 2: Visually inspect the spring above the door
Walk into the garage (use the side door, not the overhead). Look at the long horizontal spring above the door. Any visible gap of more than 1/4 inch in the coil means the spring is broken in two — even if the door still half-works.
If the spring looks intact but the door won't move, the issue is elsewhere (cable, opener, or track).
Step 3: Check the lift cables
Two galvanized steel cables run from the bottom corners of the door up to drums on either side of the spring. If a cable has snapped or come off its drum, the door will sit crooked — one side noticeably lower than the other.
Cable failure also requires a pro. The remaining cable is under high tension. Cable replacement (pair, recommended): $185-$285.
Step 4: Test the opener
If the spring and cables look fine, try the opener. Press the wall button. Does the motor click or hum? Does the light blink?
Motor clicks but no movement: stripped gear inside the opener ($145-$225) or failed logic board ($185-$295). Light blinks but no sound: receiver module failure ($85). Nothing happens at all: opener has no power — check the outlet, breaker, and the disconnect rope (someone may have pulled it for manual override).
Step 5: Try manual operation
Pull the emergency-release rope (red cord hanging from the opener track). This disconnects the opener from the door. Now try to lift the door manually.
If it lifts easily and stays at any height — the door balance is fine and the opener is the problem. If it's too heavy to lift — spring or cable failure. If it lifts but immediately drops — spring tension is gone.
When to call a tech
If diagnosis points to spring or cable failure, call immediately. These repairs require specialty tools and dangerous-to-handle tension. Opener-only issues are sometimes DIY (cleaning, basic resets) but logic-board and gear replacements are tech jobs.
Common questions.
Can I open a garage door with a broken spring?
No — and you shouldn't try. Without spring tension, a steel sectional door weighs 150-300 lbs. Lifting an unbalanced door is dangerous. The opener alone isn't strong enough to handle the full unsprung weight.
How do I know if it's the spring or the opener?
Pull the emergency-release rope on the opener track. Try to lift the door manually. If it lifts easily and stays up — opener problem. If it's too heavy or drops immediately — spring problem.
My opener motor runs but the door doesn't move. What's wrong?
Stripped plastic gear inside the opener. Common at the 12-18 year mark on chain-drive units. Gear kit replacement: $145-$225, or full opener replacement is often more cost-effective for 18+ year old units.
How much does it cost to fix a garage door that won't open?
Depends on cause. Spring replacement: $189-$549. Cable replacement (pair): $185-$285. Opener gear repair: $145-$225. Logic board replacement: $185-$295. Full opener replacement: $549-$849. We quote in writing before any work.
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